An American history of food

I had an opportunity last week to experience an educational dinner while attending the International Foodservice Editorial Council’s conference in Washington, D.C. One evening representatives from Dole, California Avocado Commission and Northwest canned Pear Bureau took a group of editors to the America Eats Tavern, the restaurant operated by Chef Jose Andres.

America Eats is more than a restaurant, however. Opened July 4th, the restaurant is also a project that chronicles the history of American food from the Revolution until now. It is partnered with an exhibit at the National Archives Building called What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam.

The exhibit, as I understand it—I have not visited—examines the federal government’s role in, and effect on, what Americans have eaten over the decades. But the restaurant is simply a celebration of that history, with foods presented in the ways they would have been served at certain times.

For example, during our dinner, in which all items had been selected for us, one of the dishes was pickled oysters. The menu explained, “An American tavern favorite since the mid-1700s, before the days of canning, using the popular spices of the era.” Another was Hush Puppies with Homemade Corn Butter. From the menu: “A Southern fisherman’s favorite, fried over an open fire with the leftovers to keep the dogs quiet. At some point, humans figured the corn cake was a perfect match with freshly caught fish—or American sturgeon caviar.” A third was BBQ Beef Short Ribs with Hoppin’ John. (Ours had cole slaw substituted for the black-eyed peas, which disappointed me.) From the menu: “The black-eyed pea was introduced to the West Indies from Central Africa in the 1700s, making its way to the Carolinas soon after. There, slaves combined them with rice, their other most important crop, to create Hoppin’ John.”

Aside from being a fun night out with friends, the experience left me with a strong desire to visit the National Archives to learn more about our culinary heritage. But it seems I’ll have to head off soon; the exhibit is scheduled to close in January.