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Tastes like canary, only more illegal...

Mike Buzalka, Executive Features Editor

November 27, 2007

1 Min Read
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Mike Buzalka

Environmentalism is clashing with culinary tradition in France in the form of a small migratory songbird called the ortolan, which was designated an endangered species in Europe nine years ago. A big reason it’s endangered: the French like to eat it.

Though it sounds as disgusting to Americans as Tater Tots slathered in ketchup does to the French, whole roasted ortolans are considered a delicacy in France.

Traditionally, the birds are trapped and fattened up for a couple weeks. Then they are drowned in Armagnac brandy, plucked, roasted whole and served to discriminating (and, these days, well-heeled) diners, who down them bones and all (“satisfyingly crunchy, with a subtle hazelnut taste” is how some aficianados quoted in the Associated Press described them).

Because it is now illegal to trap, much less kill, ortolans, prices have soared. Reportedly, a single bird can set you back several hundred Euros. That’s led to a brisk black market trade in ortolans. An unholy alliance of wealthy gourmets and cultural traditionalists keep demand high while profiteers keep the supply up.

We guess word of “sustainable dining” has yet to make it to France...

About the Author

Mike Buzalka

Executive Features Editor, Food Management

Mike Buzalka is executive features editor for Food Management and contributing editor to Restaurant Hospitality, Supermarket News and Nation’s Restaurant News. On Food Management, Mike has lead responsibility for compiling the annual Top 50 Contract Management Companies as well as the K-12, College, Hospital and Senior Dining Power Players listings. He holds bachelor’s and master’s degrees in English Literature from John Carroll University. Before joining Food Management in 1998, he served as for eight years as assistant editor and then editor of Foodservice Distributor magazine. Mike’s personal interests range from local sports such as the Cleveland Indians and Browns to classic and modern literature, history and politics.

Mike Buzalka’s areas of expertise include operations, innovation and technology topics in onsite foodservice industry markets like K-12 Schools, Higher Education, Healthcare and Business & Industry.

Mike Buzalka’s experience:

Executive Features Editor, Food Management magazine (2010-present)

Contributing Editor, Restaurant Hospitality, Supermarket News and Nation’s Restaurant News (2016-present)

Associate Editor, Food Management magazine (1998-2010)

Editor, Foodservice Distributor magazine (1997-1998)

Assistant Editor, Foodservice Distributor magazine (1989-1997)

 

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