Rice pudding gets a nondairy makeover

What would rice pudding be without sugar and plenty of heavy cream? As executive chef of Portland, Ore.-based Legacy Health, Brian Seto spent a year developing a spin on comforting, grain-based rice pudding for his new spring menu. It wasn’t just lighter but also could be served across multiple special-diet menus, including gluten-free and vegan. 

1. Texture

To achieve rice pudding’s creamy texture without cream, Seto cooked Arborio rice in coconut milk, with some rice milk mixed in to help cut the fat. “In this instance at least, it behaves similarly to dairy milk,” he says. He also used the same substitution for a housemade caramel sauce to drizzle on top of the pudding.

2. Flavor

To add flavor in a healthier way, Seto blends in a combination of unsweetened applesauce and apple juice. But the juice creates additional liquid. “We did play with the volume of the coconut milk and the apple juice. We wanted there to be enough moisture for the rice to be uniformly cooked and soft, not gritty,” Seto says.

3. Cooking method

Using an oven to cook the pudding in a foil-covered hotel pan at a low temperature allows Seto to produce the volume needed without increasing labor. Oven cooking also leaves the pudding less prone to scorching or drying out. “We figured that was an easier process than someone being glued to a gas burner stirring and stirring,” he says.