The Value of Veal Today

Veal as a menu choice conjures up images of classic dishes such as Veal Piccata, Veal Oscar, Veal Cordon Bleu and the odd-sounding Osso Buco. And with a variety of cuts available, at a range of prices, many of today's chefs are finding veal still brings versatility, value and a touch of class to their menus.

Industry standards: Although there are no precise age standards for veal, the term usually refers to a young calf from one to three months old. And according to the American Veal Association, an organization of veal producers dedicated to setting and maintaining strict, safe and humane industry standards: "Current veal production systems ensure the health of the animal and the integrity of the veal product."

Veal is an excellent source of protein, niacin, zinc and vitamin B12 and B6. In addition, it's low in fat compared to other animal-protein sources. Because of the low fat content, there is very little waste—so a little bit goes a long way.

Patrick Gebrayel, exec. chef for the Tournament Players Club at Sugarloaf in Atlanta purchases all his veal from the Buckhead Beef group, a national distributor. He uses primarily secondary veal cuts because they give him "more flavor and versatility."

Smoke and roast: "Veal brisket is a menu choice at our carving stations and is available as an a la cart sandwich. To prepare the recipe for brisket, I smoke and roast the veal—at the same time—using an in-house convection oven. The veal is lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. Hickory and mesquite wood chips are added for that smokey flavor. The veal gives you a less fatty brisket than the traditional beef brisket, resulting in a more economical choice," notes Gebrayel.

He serves the brisket with a variety of starches including mashed potatoes, french fries and rice.

"We also utilize roast whole veal loin cuts, sliced-to-order, for our Friday and Saturday night menu. Before cooking the veal, I cover it with parchment paper and leave it overnight in the cooler. The parchment absorbs any excess water in the veal. Excess water creates steam when cooking, which can toughen meat." The dehydrating effect of the parchment creates a more tender product, reports Gebrayel.

Flavor enhancers: "I also like to season the loin using some shallots, garlic and pepper. I stay away from potent herbs so that the flavor of the veal comes through. You don't want to mask the product—just enhance it."

Price is a consideration when purchasing veal, but cuts of veal, such as flank steaks and shoulder roasts utilize veal at a reasonable price, says Gebrayel. "For instance a veal flank steak is totally utilized; there's no fat, no waste," he notes.

Kay Johnson, dietary manager at the Barrett (MN) Care Center, a 58-bed nursing home, purchases veal steaks "ready-to-go" for her senior population. "The steaks are really cutlets sliced nice and thin. They come in a 4-oz. pre-portioned serving size, which offers great convenience. The meat has a wonderfully soft texture and we add gravy sauce, which keeps the meat really moist for our clients, many of whom have difficulty with swallowing. The sauce also has the added benefit of increasing calories for those senior residents who need nutritional gains. The veal dish is well accepted by the residents and is usually served with mashed or au gratin potatoes as a side," she says.

Alan Hartley, exec. chef at Northampton Community College, a Sodexho/Wood Dining Svcs. account in Bethlehem PA, showcases most of his veal dishes at the college's catering events. "I purchase fresh veal, from a local meat purveyor. We get it pre-sliced—it's really thin—in 6 oz. individual serving-size portions. And, it's Cryovac-packed in vacuum-sealed bags."

Fit for a king: Hartley offers a variation on the classic Veal Oscar dish, said to have been named in honor of Sweden's King Oscar II. This dish consists of sauteed veal cutlets topped with crab or crayfish meat and bearnaise sauce, with a portion of asparagus spears as a crown.

"The traditional recipe calls for dredging the veal in flour but I use crushed almonds and pistachios as a coating for the veal. In addition, I top off the dish with roasted vegetables instead of the crab meat. And the traditional pairing is a wild rice side, but I've been using a sweet potato recipe that complements the dish perfectly."

"I also use veal chops and roasts as entree choices. Instead of the traditional rosemary rub I use dry mustard, garlic and thyme. Again, I try to get away from the traditional and spice up these veal dishes with newer flavors," he says.