Think Cheese? Think Fresh!

Trendy paninis (above) enclose everything from artisan cheese to aged meat, herb bean spread to eggplant caponata. Photo from Aramark.

Cheese loves fruit, whether it is for a savory or sweet menu application."-–David Leon Hardy, WMMB

Fresh cheese tipsFor tips on handling fresh cheese, FM spoke with David Leonhardi, director of Cheese Education and Events at the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc.

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Cheese trendsThere are many reasons cheese continues to grow in popularity as an ingredient. Here are some of the more significant ones.

Artisan approach. In the last few years the U.S. cheese industry has enjoyed a renaissance of specialty cheese making. Over 400 varieties, types and styles of cheese, including one-of-a-kind artisan cheeses, are available from U.S. cheese makers. This plays to consumers' renewed interest in buying and supporting local artisans and farmers. interest in Latin-inspired cuisine. Hispanics, the fastest growing U.S. population segment, are fueling this growth, and their styles of cuisine are going mainstream. Cheeses, from Hispanic to Spanish, are gracing menus from casual to upscale (Think: Chihuahua, Cotija, Queso Blanco, Queso Fresco, to name a few).

Commercial restaurants' influence. Experimentation with flexible dayparts, such as late lunches, late suppers and breakfast items round the clock, create opportunities for cheese. The stylish "healthy" salads by fast food chains more often than not incorporate cheese as does "hot" cheese-friendly cuisine such as lounge and casual chic food. And more restaurants are offering interesting and unique cheese courses either as an appetizer or dessert option.

Supermarkets cashing in on sales. They're offering more interactive marketing techniques, educational classes and demonstrations, including cheese pairings and ethnic cheese uses. A look in the deli case reveals artisan, fresh and other unique cheeses alongside traditional favorites like cheddar, Parmesan and Swiss.

Manufacturer innovation. Manufacturers are offering increased cheese convenience with shredded blends diversifying to include not only ethnic-driven blends, but very specific combinations such as "taco" or "bistro" blends.

Rethinking cheese as a health food. Recently, some dairy industry funded studies have shown a correlation between dairy consumption and weight loss with diet experts saying that dairy products may contribute to a greater sense of satiety, helping us feel less hungry and better able to stick to a diet or healthful portions. Also, a recent fad diet championed cheese, in particular, as a low-carb snack alternative. And perhaps most important at this juncture, amid the most current concerns about fat, cheese contains essentially no transfats!

In fact, the fat in cheese is based on dry matter. Soft, rich, gooey cheeses are mainly water and even though they taste rich, ounce for ounce you're eating less fat than if you ate hard cheese, according to Rob Kaufelt, in his book The Murray's Cheese Handbook (see resource sidebar).

But, of course, as with any food, moderation and/or restraint is still the key to healthful eating!

In the MixNever afraid to get her hands dirty, Executive Chef Dena Peterson, at Café Modern in the Modern Art Museum of Fort Worth, TX, recently collaborated with Paula Lambert, also known as the Mozzarella Lady,* in a company (Bon Appetit) sponsored "Star Chef" event.

Chef Peterson joined Lambert at her Mozzarella Company in Dallas, TX, and literally dug in with both hands to help make—and learn about—the hand-crafted cheeses Lambert is famous for.

"I have always been a big fan of cheese, especially the local Texas goat cheese," Peterson says. "When strawberries are in season, I love to incorporate them into a salad with mixed greens, toasted nuts and crumbled goat cheese. And fresh mozzarella is great to use as the star ingredient in a toasted vegetarian panini--stuff it inside a baguette with oven roasted tomatoes, kalamata olives and a slathering of basil pesto," says Peterson.

Peterson says that she was surprised at how easy it is to make cheese. "With the right tools and ingredients, anyone can make their own craft cheese with minimal effort," she says.

After the event, Peterson incorporated some recipes using those same cheeses for the Café Modern menu: "This past March we served Chilled Pea Soup with Minted Mascarpone Cheese, Pork Tenderloin with Smoked Cheddar-Tortilla Stuffing, and a Honey Ricotta Napoleon with Espresso," says Peterson.

Peterson says she is only beginning to capitalize on the artisan angle and customers interest in local and organic products (the restaurant is known for serving cuisine that is not only artful and delicious, but also ecologically sustainable). "On my spring menu this year, I‘m featuring some of Paula's Queso Fresco with Chilies and Epazote in a Squash Blossom Quesadilla and Tender Squash Blossoms with Caramelized Onions and Queso Fresco in a Jalapeno Tortilla Topped with Roasted Corn-Poblano Salad and Cilantro-Lime Cream," she says.

Peterson shares her own Hispanic-inspired recipe, Chipotle Cheesecake appetizer (see recipe), which marries cream and goat cheeses with piquant chipotle peppers all tucked into a pumpkin seed/tortilla crust.

*(Visit www.mozzco.com for more information on Lambert's cheeses and recipe ideas.)

Fresh cheeseFresh cheeses are non-aged cheeses which depend solely on lactic fermentation for their character—tangy yet mild flavor and refreshing moist texture. Cow's, goat's or sheep's milk is heated to encourage curd formation, excess whey is drained off and the curds are molded or whipped to smoothness, according to the type of cheese.

Here is a partial list of fresh cheese easily found in markets and through distributors.

BURRATA. Derived from the Italian word for butter, Burrata is made with cows milk, and has a creamy, soft center and rich flavor. It was first created in the Puglia region of Southern Italy in the 1920s.

COTTAGE CHEESE. Bright, creamy white cheese with small or large curds. Has a fresh milk, slightly acidic, creamy flavor.

CREAM & NEUFCHÂTEL CHEESE. Creamy white cheese with a smooth, creamy texture. Neufchâtel is a bit firmer than cream cheese. Rich, nutty, slightly sweet flavor. Both blend well with and carry other flavors.

FETA CHEESE. Chalky white cheese with a crumbly texture. Has a distinctive sharp, salty flavor. Feta is packed in brine (salt and water) that preserves the cheese for approximately six months, longer than most fresh cheeses. When Feta is sautéed, it browns without melting.

FROMAGE BLANC. French rennet-curded cheese made from skimmed or whole cow's milk whipped to achieve a smooth thick consistency. Can be used as a substitute for yogurt or cream in cooking. It is also available flavored with fruit such as strawberry and apricot (Fromage Frais).

GOAT CHEESE (CHEVRE). Goat's milk cheese run the gamut of flavor (from mild to goaty), texture (creamy to crumbly) and types (plain, flavored, with rind, coated) depending on where it is made and if it has been aged or not.

HALLOUMI. A rather rubbery little block of off-white cheese originating from Cyprus. The firm salty cheese is most often sliced, grilled and finished with olive oil and pine nuts. The crunchy crust yields to a soft and tangy center.

MASCARPONE CHEESE. Creamy white cheese with a smooth, thick, soft texture. Has a rich, buttery, slightly sweet flavor. When making frostings, dips or spreads, do not over-whip or over process mascarpone—the cheese can actually churn into a lumpy texture like butter.

PANELA. Creamy white cheese with a crumbly texture. Has a mild, milky flavor that resembles curd. Slices and crumbles well. Holds its shape when heated, does not melt, but browns easily.

PANEER. A traditional Indian cheese. After coagulation, the strained curds are pressed into small, fairly firm blocks. Generally not eaten in its natural state, but is used in the preparation of Indian sweets or grilled or sautéed and added to vegetable curries.

PETIT SUISSE. A rich cream cheese from France, it is made from pasteurized cow's milk enriched with cream to give a fat content of 60-70%. Unsalted and bland in flavor, it has a very soft, almost liquid consistency. It is made in small cylindrical shapes, sold paper-wrapped or in containers. It can be used in the same way as Fromage blanc or served with fresh fruit. It is also available flavored with fruit.

QUARK. Made in Germany, Holland, Great Britain and various other countries and the spelling changes accordingly. Virtually identical to Fromage Blanc but with a higher fat content. In Germany it accounts for almost half the total cheese production.

QUESO BLANCO/QUESO BLANCO CON FRUTAS. Creamy white cheese with a crumbly texture. Has a mild, fresh flavor. Holds its shape when heated, does not melt, but browns easily. Great cheese for frying. Queso Blanco con Frutas contains pieces of real mango and pineapple.

QUESO FRESCO. White cheese with a granular, curdy texture. Has a very mild, fresh milk flavor, with a slight saltiness. Great cheese for frying as it holds its shape when heated, does not melt, but browns easily.

REQUESON: a Mexican-style cheese, similar to ricotta, soft and spreadable with a fresh milky taste. Use as a filling for enchiladas and pasta or flavor and use as a spread.

RICOTTA CHEESE. White cheese with a creamy, yet slightly grainy appearance. Has a mild flavor with a hint of sweetness. Whey and part-skim ricotta provide a firm texture for fillings in dishes. Whole milk ricotta is well suited for stuffing pasta such as ravioli.

ROBIOLA. A small fresh square of cheese from Italy with an appealing mild saltiness. Similar to cream cheese but without thickeners.

SAINTE-MARIE. A squat, cone-shaped cow's milk cheese from the Burgundy province of France. It can be either salted or unsalted but should be creamy and supple rather than firm and crumbly. Pure white in appearance with a sharp nose, this mild cheese is best eaten alone.

Source: Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board and Beliogioso Cheese, Inc., The Cheese Primer, The Murray's Cheese Handbook.