Deconstructing ramen

Ramen broth is typically made by simmering meat bones for many hours, says Page. The vegan broth he makes—a combination of water, kombu (dried kelp strips) and shiitake mushrooms—not only fits every diet, but it’s also ready in just 15 minutes.

To create the sauce, Page purees toasted walnuts with red miso paste, soy sauce and enough of the broth until it emulsifies and turns creamy but doesn’t get too thick. “The miso provides umami flavor that the walnuts accentuate,” says Page. “Plus the nuts add body and richness, acting as a substitute for meat.”

In building the tsukemen, customers start with soba, udon or egg noodles and add the sauce, which clings to the noodles more effectively than a ramen broth. Poached eggs, scallions, Japanese seaweed, pickled radishes, sesame seeds and other toppings are available to customize the dish—as well as cooked pork and chicken for the meat eaters.